We spoke to Orla Mackey, a writer and teacher based in Kilkenny, ahead of the publication of her debut novel – Mouthing
Where to drink
“Pat Carroll’s on Ballybough Street is a family-run pub that is newly renovated but has all the warmth and character of a traditional local. The staff are genuinely welcoming and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. Whether it’s for a work night out, day two of a wedding or a simple post-match pint, it’s hard to pass Pat’s. There are plans for a new beer garden area that will elevate the place even further.
Outside of Kilkenny, head to Mackey’s Bar and Lounge in the village of Gathabawn. There’s a beautiful wood-panelled bar with an outdoor seated area and brilliant food options on Saturday and Sunday.”
Where to eat
“Tipperary sisters, Sinéad and Niamh Moclair opened a restaurant overlooking John’s Bridge in Kilkenny City in 2022 called Nóinín. The space is intimate and cosy. I love the fact that the menu draws its influences from around the world but the focus is firmly on showcasing Kilkenny’s fantastic local produce. Complementing the food menu is a small, well-curated wine list from Kilkenny’s own Le Caveau. I always make room for a side of their gorgeous crispy fried spuds with rosemary salt and confit garlic aioli.
Another great option is Petronella’s, an underrated restaurant housed in a medieval building on Butterslip Lane. Petronella’s offers the best vegetarian and vegan options in Kilkenny and is full of atmosphere. I can’t fail to mention that one of the light lunches is a Tayto sandwich and bar of Cadbury’s chocolate for only €5. Where else would you get it?!
If you’re venturing outside of Kilkenny City, Goodly Barrow Museum and Café in Goresbridge is well worth a visit. The lentil soup is to die for!”
Where to get fresh air
“Myself and a friend have an established routine of Wednesday walks. By far our favourite trail is the Nore Valley River Walk which brings you through leafy woods and across open meadows from Kilkenny City to the village of Bennettsbridge. Often the scenery comes second to the chat. The best times to visit this trail are July through October. For an outdoor option that can be enjoyed regardless of the weather, The Castle Park is the obvious choice. Situated in the heart of the city, the grounds of Kilkenny Castle offer acres of open parkland with gorgeous trees and shrubs that provide year-round colour.”
Random gem
“Smithwick’s Experience Barrel Yard is a really cool spot. It’s an enclosed, heated outdoor space that has live music and DJ sets. Even Kilkenny natives feel like they’re on holidays when they’re in this historical buzzy location! Added to the atmosphere is the delicious food prepared and served on-site from a variety of top-class food truck vendors. I love to start a night out by meeting friends at one of the Barrel Yard sessions before heading to O’Riada’s or Cleere’s on Parliament Street.”
Where to get pampered
“Farida in Express Beauty is my go-to person for brows. She goes above and beyond to make you feel comfortable and she finishes all of her treatments with the loveliest head massage. Image on Rose Inn Street is great for facials and Mint by Pembroke for everything from massages to peels.”
Where to browse
“Kieran Street is like a little piece of Galway in Kilkenny City. It’s pedestrianised and cobbled and dotted with cafés and restaurants that you can sit outside and relax. It’s a great place for people watching. One of the most unique things about Kieran Street is that it’s almost entirely populated with independent shops and boutiques. You really get the feel of Kilkenny’s history as a medieval city when you’re here.”
Orla Mackey’s debut novel Mouthing will be released on 30 May, and is published by Hamish Hamilton. Here’s what she had to say about it:
“Mouthing is a book about life in rural Ireland. It introduces the reader to a small community that looks entirely insignificant from a distance but means everything to the people who belong there. The book takes place over about sixty years. It follows the ordinary goings-on in the village, the disagreements that the locals get tangled up in, the way their lives pan out. The book plays with the idea that all of our lives amount to a story – and the idea that if your story goes untold, you pass into the forgotten. The characters in Mouthing seem aware of that. They’re asking you to listen to them and to believe in what they’re saying.”
