Niamh Devereux experiences Tribe in Duleek, which has just launched its brand-new concept and farm-to-flame menu
I love a restaurant that is full of surprises.
With Tribe, in Duleek, Co Meath, the first one comes when I step inside. Set in a 5th century church, I’m not sure what to expect, but the space has been beautifully restored over two floors; think sleek, modern interiors with high ceilings and the glow of hanging pendant lights, while ‘In Crust We Trust’ hums in neon by the huge wood-fired pizza oven.
Original features have also been meticulously preserved, and there are plenty of nods to the history of the building: a specially-commissioned glass bar, stands where the original alter once did, while an intimate dining experience can be booked in the old church tower.
Then there is the new menu, which reflects the family-run restaurant’s direction under the leadership of Chef Aidan Ryan. Aidan is a former student and tutor at Ballymaloe Cookery School, where he worked alongside Darina Allen and Rory O’Connell. He also trained at Michelin-starred Chapter One in Dublin under Ross Lewis, and with Derry Clarke of L’Ecrivain.
It is always heartening to see homegrown businesses going the extra mile to support local, and this is certainly the case with Tribe. As well as sourcing ingredients from the likes of The Smokin’ Butcher in Navan, The Wooded Pig in Skryne, Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese in Slane and Wilde’s Seafood in Rush, it has partnered with Irish wine-maker Fairy Trees Wines, whose vineyard is nestled on the banks of the River Dee in Co. Louth.
As well as building a menu rooted in the fields of the Boyne Valley, the new concept is all about going back to basics, explains its executive chef Aidan, focusing on wood-fired mains, handmade pasta, breads and pizza dough.”We let the incredible produce speak for itself, and what we serve is now made in-house each day,” he says. “It’s something we’ve built over time, and it’s a real labour of love for the whole team, developed over many months of trials and testing.”
There is a lot to love about the new offerings, blending local and Italian flavours. During my visit, while sipping on a passionfruit margarita, I ordered (to share with my partner) arancini with wild mushrooms and mozzarella in a potato parmesan cream (€11), and chicken wings with lemon and nduja salt (€12/17). Both were delicious; the arancini was rich and earthy and creamy while the wings were satisfyingly crisp but juicy, balancing the sharpness of lemon with the warmth of the nduja.
While there is also a grill section with dishes like a whole spatchcock chicken or 14oz Bavette steak, I wanted to try the handmade pasta and pizza. I enjoyed the freedom of the customisable pasta menu – you can choose between rigatoni, linguine or reginette made with either pomodoro, carbonara, vodka or slow-braised bolognaise sauce with your choice of protein. I opted for reginette with vodka sauce and prawns (€21) and it was silky, comforting perfection.
The wood-fired pizza we decided on was the Spicy Brisket (€18): Beef brisket, scamorza, roma tomatoes, pickled red onion, jalapeño and jalapeño mayo. With fall-apart beef, punchy heat and a base that was beautifully charred, this is pizza worth making the journey for.
My meal concluded with another unique addition: vanilla soft serve by award-winning Irish gelato Scúp, containing passionfruit jelly, slathered in a chocolate ‘craic’ (€7). Served as a fun old-school cone, when each element is combined it is a reminder why simple, great ingredients can make something special.
I’ll be back soon, if only to try the hot cookie skillet the staff raved about…
Tribe Restaurant is open Fridays at 5pm, Saturdays at 4pm, Sundays at 1 pm, and Mondays at 5pm. It operates on a walk-in basis, but bookings can be made online on triberestaurant.ie
